One of the most memorable scenes in A Gentleman in Moscow by Amor Towles is the preparation and enjoyment of bouillabaisse in the kitchen of the Hotel Metropol. This hearty French seafood stew, rich with flavor and tradition, is more than just a dish it becomes a symbol of camaraderie, creativity, and the persistence of beauty in constrained circumstances. Count Alexander Rostov and his friends find joy and purpose in recreating the beloved Marseille classic, using what they have available in post-revolutionary Russia. This dish serves as a testament to how food can offer dignity and comfort even in the most difficult times.
The Culinary Spirit of A Gentleman in Moscow
Symbolism of Food in the Novel
Throughout the novel, food is a recurring theme that reflects the Count’s refined tastes and his insistence on preserving culture despite his restricted life. Bouillabaisse stands out not only for its complexity but for the way it draws characters together in a shared purpose. It highlights the warmth of friendship and the simple joy of good company. Cooking becomes a small act of resistance an effort to maintain civility and humanity in a world turned upside down.
Adapting French Cuisine in Soviet Russia
Preparing an authentic bouillabaisse in the Soviet-era Hotel Metropol is no easy feat. The Count and his companions, Emile the chef and Andrey the maître d’, must improvise using limited ingredients. However, their careful attention to detail and their passion for classic techniques allow them to capture the essence of the dish. Their version may not follow every rule of traditional Marseille cuisine, but it remains a faithful homage to its spirit.
What Is Bouillabaisse?
Origin and Characteristics
Bouillabaisse is a traditional Provençal fish stew originating from the port city of Marseille in southern France. Originally considered food for fishermen, the dish has evolved into a luxurious delicacy served in fine restaurants. It typically includes a variety of fish and shellfish, flavored with Mediterranean herbs, garlic, onions, tomatoes, and saffron. The broth is the heart of the dish rich, aromatic, and infused with the essence of the sea.
Essential Components
- Aromatic vegetables: leeks, onions, garlic, and fennel
- Seafood: a mix of firm white fish, shellfish like mussels and clams, and sometimes lobster or crab
- Herbs and spices: saffron, thyme, bay leaves, and orange peel
- Broth base: fish stock, tomatoes, and white wine or Pernod
- Accompaniments: rouille (a garlicky mayo-like sauce) and toasted baguette slices
Bouillabaisse à la Metropol: Inspired by A Gentleman in Moscow
Ingredients
Though the Count’s bouillabaisse was likely made with what could be scavenged, here’s a version inspired by the book, adapted for modern kitchens. This recipe balances authenticity with accessibility.
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 onion, chopped
- 1 leek, white part only, sliced thin
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced
- 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
- 1 strip of orange zest
- 1/2 teaspoon saffron threads
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 teaspoon fresh thyme (or 1/2 tsp dried)
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- 4 cups fish stock (or substitute with vegetable stock)
- 1/2 pound firm white fish (cod, halibut, or snapper)
- 1/2 pound shellfish (mussels, clams, or shrimp)
- Salt and pepper to taste
For the Rouille
- 1 garlic clove, minced
- 1 egg yolk
- 1/2 cup olive oil
- 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
- Pinch of cayenne pepper
- Splash of lemon juice
Step-by-Step Instructions
Preparing the Base
Start by heating the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the chopped onion, leek, and fennel, and sauté until softened about 8 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for another minute.
Add the chopped tomatoes, orange zest, thyme, bay leaf, and saffron. Let the mixture cook down for 5 minutes before pouring in the white wine. Bring to a simmer and let the alcohol cook off for 23 minutes. Add the fish stock and reduce the heat. Simmer for 20 minutes to allow the flavors to develop deeply.
Cooking the Seafood
Carefully add the white fish pieces first and cook for about 5 minutes. Then add the shellfish and cover the pot. Allow everything to cook until the mussels and clams open (discard any that do not open), and the shrimp (if used) turns pink. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
Making the Rouille
In a small bowl, whisk the garlic, egg yolk, mustard, and lemon juice. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil while whisking continuously to form an emulsion. The rouille should be thick, similar to mayonnaise. Add a pinch of cayenne for heat.
Serving the Bouillabaisse
Ladle the hot stew into bowls, ensuring each portion has a balance of broth, fish, and shellfish. Spread the rouille on toasted baguette slices and float them on top of the soup or serve them on the side. Garnish with fresh fennel fronds or parsley if available.
The Emotional Resonance of the Dish
More Than Just a Meal
For Count Rostov, preparing bouillabaisse was more than culinary expression. It was a way to preserve elegance, to nurture the spirit of his companions, and to honor his past. The process of collecting ingredients, collaborating with friends, and crafting something beautiful from limited means reflects the greater narrative of survival and grace under pressure.
In A Gentleman in Moscow, this dish bridges the gap between eras, between hardship and indulgence. It’s a reminder that culture and joy can be kept alive even when circumstances strip away everything else.
Sharing and Connection
Sharing bouillabaisse at the Metropol becomes an intimate act of rebellion against dullness and despair. Each spoonful is a celebration of resilience and friendship. The Count, Emile, and Andrey demonstrate that even behind the walls of confinement, one can find purpose in serving others and keeping tradition alive.
Tips for Home Cooks
Adaptability is Key
Much like in the novel, you can adapt this recipe based on what seafood or vegetables are available to you. Use frozen fish if needed. Substitute saffron with turmeric for color and a touch of spice. Use store-bought fish stock or make a simple broth from shrimp shells and white wine. What matters most is the layering of flavor and the heart you put into it.
Make It Your Own
Feel free to experiment by adding other herbs like basil or tarragon, or serving the dish with crusty sourdough bread instead of a baguette. You can even make a vegetarian version using mushrooms, seaweed, and vegetable broth. The spirit of bouillabaisse lies in comfort and creation, not strict rules.
Inspired by A Gentleman in Moscow, this bouillabaisse recipe celebrates more than just French culinary tradition it honors friendship, elegance, and the quiet rebellion of beauty in a world of constraints. Whether you’re cooking to impress guests or simply to nourish yourself, this dish invites you to embrace history, storytelling, and the powerful comfort of a warm, aromatic bowl of seafood stew.